With many of the world’s leading ski resorts seeming a bit, well, “samey”, it can be a pleasure to find a ski area with a different ethos.
The problem is that is the ski resort business in Europe and North America has matured and more and more independent areas have been snapped up by big groups, the lines of competition have centred more on which has the fastest, most comfortable and perfectly groomed slopes, or the most multi-functional phone app, rather than the most, erm, shall we say “character” ?
There are though, thankfully, still plenty of unique, independently-owned ski areas where the priority is not so much about money-making (although of course they have to do that to keep the lifts turning) and more about providing an authentic snow sport holiday, with a bit more focus on the heart and soul, the natural surroundings and on just renewing the spirit.
No, I’m talking about mindfulness classes or even snow yoga, this is something more fundamental.
One resort that has always stood its ground when those in the skiing world around it were sold off one by one, is Utah’s Sundance.
CREDIT Adam Clark
If you haven’t heard of it but are of a certain age you should have heard of the film ‘Butch Cassidy And The Sundance Kid’. A huge commercial success upon its release in 1969, actor and environmentalist Robert Redford played The Sundance Kid and named the ski area he bought with his income from that film, as well as from starring in one of the greatest ski movies of all time, also released in ’69, Downhill Racer.
But Sundance, which also gives its name to the largest independent film festival in the US, which began there but has now moved to Park City because of its size, is not just about skiing
“Sundance is an arts community, a recreational community, a community of people who appreciate the beauty of nature and feel the responsibility to preserve it,” Redford said after buying the resort in 1969 and envisaging the careful growth of a community committed to the balance of art, nature and community.
I first read about the place in the 1980s and it was four decades before I finally got there.
Like most of Utah’s ski areas it’s actually just a short hop from Salt Lake City International (55 minutes), but on my previous visits I had done the usual thing of skiers making quite an investment in time and money to get there and headed straight to America’s biggest resort of Park City, neighbouring Deer Valley or one of the famous ski state’s other well-known areas like Alta and Snowbird.
(Redford in 1969 CREDIT NBC)
A Quick History
After Redford purchased Sundance he was determined to keep the place true to the Ute tribes that first inhabited this canyon and also recognise the contribution of the Stewarts, a family of Scottish immigrants who homesteaded the area early 20th century. It was the second generation of Stewarts who had originally developed the mountain into a small ski resort a few years before Redford purchased it with the aim of being different to the many fast developing ski resorts of the western US, where ski lifts and condominium (apartment) complexes were rapidly popping up. His aim by contrast was “to develop a little and preserve a great deal.”
So Redford rejecting advice from investors to build up-market hotels and instead created a community for environmental conservation and artistic experimentation
..with some skiing. In 1981, the Sundance Institute was founded at the resort bringing many writers, directors, actors and artists to the resort over the years to take inspiration from its character and beauty.
Now in his 80s Robert Redford reached an agreement to sell Sundance to two investment houses in late 2020, having owned the resort for more than a half-century.
He told the Salt Lake Tribune that while he loved Sundance, it also “created a lot of weight for me to be carrying around. I had been searching for years for the right people to take it to the next level, so that I could take that weight off my shoulders and enjoy my life.”
As part of the sale the two groups have committed to continue Redford’s policies of responsible development and land preservation with around 75% of the resort’s 2,600 acres preserved through a conservation easement and protective covenants.
So What About The Skiing?
Nestled beneath majestic Mount Timpanogos, Sundance offers about 500 acres of skiable terrain on the mountain’s northeast slopes for all ability levels. The resort admits, “Sundance may not be Utah’s largest resort but it’s definitely one of the most memorable.” The terrain divides up with 20% beginner trails, 40% intermediate trails and 40% advanced trails with 665 metres of skiable vertical. The top of the slopes are at the ridge at Bearclaw Cabin which provides stunning 360° views of the surrounding landscape.
There’s certainly a friendly, intimacy on the slopes that’s lacking at many of Utah and indeed the whole skiing world’s big name resorts.
Sundance may not have the biggest ski area, but it has been carefully expanding in recent years. Last winter 22-23 saw a new mid-mountain fixed-grip quad chairlift unveiled accessing 10 new runs with 40 more acres of novice, intermediate, and advanced terrain south of Jake’s Lift.
“It has long been a goal of the Resort to provide additional terrain on our mountain. This new area has great natural light with abundant sunshine; I am confident it will be a new favourite area for early morning runs and laps throughout the day for families,” commented Sundance’s President and General Manager, Chad Linebaugh.
Besides downhill, cross-country or ‘Nordic’ skiing is big at Sundance with rentals and lessons available and other outdoor activities include snowshoeing and zipwires.
That Arts Community
One of the big differences between Sundance and most other ski resorts are that the apres ski options go way beyond a spa session or table dancing in your ski boots.
Creative arts have long been a key part of Sundance so here you can sign up for a pottery class, jewellery making, journal making, soapmaking, watercolour, acrylic painting, printmaking or drawing. It’s all provided via the Sundance Art Studio which delivers a wide array of activities and classes.
I opted to get behind a potter’s wheel for the first time since primary school and my first time ever in a ski resort, quickly learning the basics and making and painting several pots within a couple of hours. These were left to dry and arrived intact in the mail having been fired in the kiln once dried and then well packaged for their nearly 5,000 mile journey back to me. What a great souvenir of my trip to Utah.
Everything Else
It would be wrong to think of Sundance as some kind of hippy commune. Along with the first rate skiing there are great cafes and restaurants and some very comfortable accommodations, with more currently being added. But it remains an intimate place with a spiritual feel and lots of opportunity to express your artistic side – whether you knew you had one or not before you arrived.
From this winter guests are able to enjoy a full day on the slopes and head back to their lodge to unwind at ‘The Springs’ – a new facility that will feature two hot tubs and a spa.
In terms of dining, the Tree Room is the resort’s most famous restaurant, carefully built around a growing tree (which has, alas, since expired..), it contains beautiful Native American art from Robert Redford’s private collection and serves up fresh, seasonal mountain cuisine.
Among the half-dozen other options there’s also the Owl Bar, once frequented by Butch Cassidy when it was located in Thermopolis, Wyoming, and it has now been restored to its 1890’s splendour and serves cocktails and wine as well as the whiskey and beer that Butch, a.k.a Robert LeRoy Parker, might have been more familiar with.
Sundance will open for its 23-24 season in early December.
You can book accommodation at Sundance Resort direct and a number of tour operators including Ski Independence and Ski Safari offer Sundance as part of Utah tours.
For more info on travel to Utah see the Visit Utah site.
(Pic Top CREDIT Adam Clark)
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