“Kazakhstan? For skiing?” The raised eyebrows at my local pub said it all. Yet here I was, in the back of a Chevy Cobalt climbing through Almaty’s rush hour traffic, when my driver and I realized we were headed to the wrong destination. Through the magic of Google Translate, he course-corrected with a smile, refusing to let his foreign passenger get lost in this sprawling Central Asian metropolis.
This minor mishap set the tone for what would become one of my most fascinating ski adventures – where Western preconceptions dissolve into the reality of a nation rapidly carving its own identity between East and West, tradition and innovation, Soviet legacy and digital future.
A City of Contrasts
Almaty, Kazakhstan’s largest city and former capital, defies easy categorization. The city sprawls across a valley at 800 meters above sea level, its modern skyscrapers piercing the sky against the backdrop of the majestic Zailiisky Alatau mountain range. Just 15 kilometres from the city center lies Shymbulak, a resort that would make any ski enthusiast question their loyalty to the Alps.
(From Shymbulak’s 3 200m summit looking into the valley)
The Journey Up
Getting to the slopes is part of the adventure. A 70-cent public bus ride gets you from the centre of Almaty to Medeu in no time. The actual ascent begins with a gondola system that epitomizes Kazakhstan’s ambitious vision for winter sports.
“Where are you from?” becomes the constant refrain in these suspended capsules, asked by everyone from young tech entrepreneurs to curious locals experiencing snow for the first time. Unlike European resorts, where lift conversations are usually limited to polite nods, every ride becomes a cultural exchange. Stories flow freely – of Kazakhstan’s rapid development, family traditions, and hopes for the future.
The first gondola takes you to Shymbulak’s base at 2,260m, where the resort’s compact layout, well-organized collection of cafés, rental shops, and the buzz of skiers and tourists start their day. From there, a couple more lifts climb up to 3,200m to reveal the backdrop of the Sailiisky Altau range.
The ride offers a spectacular pass over Medeu – the world’s highest ice skating rink at 1,691 meters above sea level. Built during the Soviet era, over 120 world records were broken on its ice. Soviet engineering is riveted throughout Almaty, symbolizing the country’s sporting backdrop.
The resort itself is a testament to Kazakhstan’s ambitious vision. Boasting 25 kilometres of slopes, Shymbulak is in the Guinness Book of Records for the world’s highest night skiing. The main run drops a vertical kilometre—longer than most Alpine descents—and the terrain varies from gentle blues perfect for beginners to challenging blacks that would make any expert grin.
Plenty of wide-open bowls provide plenty of options to hit on a great powder day.
Between Two Solitudes
Kazakstan shares the second-longest international border with Russia. At 7,000 kilometres, the country has walked a delicate line since the Russian invasion of Ukraine, maintaining its independence and pledging neutrality. Since 2017, it has been transitioning from Cyrillic to Latin to decolonize itself from its ties to the Soviet Union.
“It’s about more than just alphabet,” a young tech professional explains during one gondola ride. “It’s about connecting with the global digital economy, about making our path.” The shift represents a broader trend of Kazakhstan asserting its identity while maintaining its historical language connections.
The Soviet Legacy and Modern Vision
Shymbulak’s history mirrors Kazakhstan’s journey. The resort’s first lift was a war trophy from Europe after World War II when the area served as the Soviet Union’s premier training ground for Olympic athletes. The Medeu complex was built on Stalin’s orders, transforming the valley into a high-altitude sports mecca.
Today, these Soviet-era installations are being complemented by modern infrastructure. An ambitious development plan for the Almaty Super Cluster envisions creating more than 125 kilometres of interconnected skiing, transforming the region into one of Asia’s premier winter sports destinations. While the project requires billions in investment, it represents Kazakhstan’s bold ambitions for its future as a global winter sports destination.
A short walk from the village’s main base brings you to the Tyuksu (Tyuk-su) Alpine Camp. There is a memorial honouring Kazakh and Russian climbing pioneers. You will find the dedication to Anatoli Boukree, Kazakhstan’s most famous climber, who died during an expedition to Annapurna in 1997.
Technical Terrain
For gear heads and powder hounds, Shymbulak delivers. The resort features three serious black runs, eleven reds for intermediate skiers, and four blues for those finding their snow legs. The off-piste opportunities are endless, with pristine bowls and challenging couloirs accessible from the top lift—though local knowledge and proper avalanche gear are essential.
The serious expert terrain requires dedicated preparation. Several local tour operators offer guided backcountry experiences. Still, one crucial point: start cardio training weeks before arrival at these altitudes—where these runs start above 3,000 meters. Even experienced skiers need exceptional fitness levels to fully enjoy the countless couloirs and pristine bowls that make Shymbulak a legitimate freeride destination.
Thanks to the altitude and continental climate, the snow quality rivals that of the best European resorts. The dry and compact powder offers excellent conditions from November through May. Night skiing adds another dimension, with floodlit runs creating an almost surreal experience against Almaty’s twinkling lights below.
Cultural Crossoads
Walking through Almaty’s Green Bazaar (pictured above and below), stallholders hawk everything from local honey to Korean kimchi; signs appear in double script: Kazakh and Russian. It’s a delight to the eye and scent. The market’s endless rows are a sensory overload—spices, dried fruit, meat and poultry and constant bargaining offer a glimpse into Kazakhstan’s role as a historical crossroads of civilizations.
The culinary scene reflects this fusion. After a day on the slopes, you can feast on traditional beshbarmak (horse meat and noodles) in a yurt-style restaurant at 3,200m or head down to the city for modern Central Asian fusion in sleek establishments where young Kazakhs debate blockchain technology over craft cocktails.
After Dark in Almaty
The city comes alive after dark, especially in the historic district where centuries-old architecture houses some of Central Asia’s most sophisticated nightlife. Hidden speakeasy bars tucked behind unmarked doors serve creative cocktails to an international crowd, while intimate wine bars showcase local and Georgian wines. With proximity to the Caucasus region, Almaty has a vibrant and robust wine scene with many boutique shops offering local sommeliers who guide you through a curated list.
A different perspective of one of the many areas of the Green Bazaar.
Getting There
Travel to Kazakhstan requires more time. With Russian airspace restrictions in place, flight routes have been redrawn, typically routing through the Middle East or Central Asia, adding several hours to the journey. However, the extra travel time is a fitting prelude to a destination that rewards those willing to venture beyond the familiar.
Where to Stay and Dine
Accommodation options span from slope-side luxury to city-center convenience. The Resort Hotel Shymbulak offers ski-in and ski-out accessibility with stunning mountain views, while the Royal Tulip provides elevated comfort near the resort base. If you prefer staying in Almaty, the iconic Hotel Kazakhstan, with its towering Soviet architecture, is centrally located to get to Shymbulak and explore the city on foot.
The dining scene at Shymbulak was a pleasant surprise. Rifugio del Monte is a must-visit mountain restaurant, offering a welcome retreat for lunch or après-ski. The atmosphere and Italian cuisine were prevalent during the trip as they provided time to relax and enjoy the view of the mountain range. La Skala café is also a nice restaurant midmountain offering spectacular views. In the city, you’ll find everything from traditional Kazakh restaurants to modern international cuisine, reflecting Almaty’s position as a cultural crossroads.
A view of the glacier from the Talgar Pas. Plans to expand and interconnect other of the national ski resorts are underway.
The Price is Right
Shymbulak offers a refreshing and affordable alternative to Europe and North America. A day pass costs around €35, compared to €80+ in major Alpine resorts. Five-star hotels in Almaty cost what you’d pay for a basic chalet in Courchevel, and the food – a delicious mix of Central Asian, Russian, and international cuisine – rarely dents the wallet. A hearty lunch of lagman (hand-pulled noodles with meat and vegetables) at the mountain restaurant costs less than a mediocre burger in the Alps.
Why Now?
As climate change threatens lower-altitude European resorts and lift passes creep towards €100 a day, Kazakhstan’s high-altitude slopes and ambitious development plans make it an increasingly attractive proposition. But beyond the practical advantages, going to Kazakstan represents the winter sport in its purest form but, at the same time, intrigues your cultural senses and experience something out of this world!
The future of skiing might not lie in the familiar peaks of the Alps or Rockies but in these less-trodden mountains where ancient traditions meet modern ambitions. In Kazakhstan, you’ll find world-class skiing, but a nation on the cusp of transformation, where every lift ride might bring a new friendship, every run a new perspective, and every visit with a greater understanding of the people, the culture and the land surrounding them.
All Images credit and copyright: Frederick Wallace
Pictured top and bottom – This isn’t the Kazakh’s daily attire. Fortunately, We found a photo shoot complete in traditional couture to promote the Shymbulak ski resort.
