We tend to think of the same old places when we plan our ski trips, most of us choosing the Alps, and even when we’re lucky enough to book a trip to North America, most of us will go seven or eight time zones west to California, Colorado, Alberta or BC.
But beyond those usual suspects there are, quite literally, thousands of small to medium ski areas dotted all over the world, and if you think a little outside the box you can plan a very different, but still very fun, ski trip. In fact, going somewhere that most Brits don’t will more than likely make the trip extra memorable … hopefully for all the right reasons!
New York State is a region you won’t find in any mainstream British tour operator’s programme. When we do ski in New England it’s more likely we’ll think of resorts like Killington and Stowe in Vermont, yet New York is home to more than 50 ski areas and it has a long, rich heritage, being one of the few areas in the world that can claim to have twice hosted a winter Olympics, for example – the 1932 and 1980 Games at Lake Placid. The 1932 games are particularly noteworthy being only the third ever staged (after Chamonix and St Moritz) and the first outside the Alps.
There are other attractions too, not least the fact you could combine a weekend in the Big Apple with your ski trip, nor that the flights are much shorter, cheaper and you’ll have less jet lag than if you go further west. With the ski areas at relatively low levels, altitude sickness isn’t a problem either, and nor should snow cover be, with those snowy winters for which the Big Apple is famous the norm here, and complete snowmaking cover available as a back-up. The costs of your resort stay are likely to be lower too.
Back in February I took a road trip to four typical New York ski areas to see for myself. Here’s where I stayed:
> Plattekill Mountain
(Runs: 38, Lifts: 4, Vertical: 306m)
On arrival at Plattekill Mountain I immediately realised that this was going to be a different sort of skiing experience. Plattekill is a far cry from the corporate ski experience we’ve become used to over the past few decades, and it remains fiercely independent and determined to “keep it real” – thanks in large part to the dedication of the exceptionally hospitable owners, Laszio and his wife Danielle Vajtay, who have built Plattekill up over the 20 years since they brought it back from the brink.
Granted it is a small (tiny) ski area serviced by four (slow) lifts, but what this place doesn’t have in size and technology it certainly makes up for in character and atmosphere.
This is without a doubt a different kind of skiing experience. Well suited to a family with children starting out their skiing journey, many locals return year on year, probably having learned how to ski there themselves when they were children. But Plattekill does have a darker side too for those needing more challenging terrain, with 40% of its terrain rated Black Diamond, the toughest category in North America.
> Belleayre Mountain
(Runs: 50, Lifts: 8, Vertical: 428m)
Having stayed at the nearby upmarket Emerson resort with its oversized rooms and Jacuzzi bath, I was rested and ready for an early start at Belleayre, a 15-minute drive away in the Forever Wild area of the Catskills. This is one of the three areas run by ORDA, a public body tasked with maintaining winter Olympic heritage resorts – the other two being Olympic venues Gore Mountain and Whiteface Mountain.
I hit the well-groomed slopes early and found another very family-orientated mountain with lots of kids racing around! There are great blue runs for the beginner who needs to improve, but a skier of any ability can comfortably spend a weekend here without getting bored. Dear Run was my favourite run on the mountain.
But part of what’s special about New York skiing is what’s off the slopes too, and Belleayre boasts a great base lodge, complete with an oversized fireplace, in which to kick back for some après. I ended up here with my hosts drinking Sam Adams beer and eating the most amazing popcorn I have ever tasted. Once again they knew how to entertain, and the base lodge had a buzzing atmosphere which made everyone stay for “just one more drink”.
> Hunter Mountain
(Runs: 57, Lifts: 10, Vertical: 488m)
On to ski area three and the mountains continued to get progressively bigger, with more skiable terrain.
Hunter Mountain is geared up to offer much more to the 20/30 something age group, with a buzzing oversized bar and restaurant area, and a more commercial feel. The base lodge is big with all amenities under one roof, and a hugely popular ‘Mountain Jam’ music festival is staged here every year.
It was another early start, fuelled by breakfast on the mountain where I tried the recommended pancakes and bacon and didn’t regret it – it had to be done! There are more than 50 runs for all standards at Hunter, the longest being two miles long, served by a comprehensive lift network including nine chairs, many of them quads as well as a fast six-seater. All in all I felt like I’d moved up a gear on the slopes.
Hunter’s claim to fame is that it once made such an impression on some Japanese entrepreneurs who skied here when they stayed in New York that they built Hunter Mountain in Japan when they got back.
> Windham Mountain
(Runs: 52, Lifts: 12, Vertical: 488m)
Windham was the final mountain that I got to ski, having barely scratched the surface of New York State’s skiing, visiting less than 10% of the areas here.
I have to say it was a good one to end on, as I loved this resort – it was more sophisticated and developed, with a dozen lifts including two high-speed quads, more than 50 trails and five terrain parks – although it was also again very family-orientated.
Although it doesn’t affect day-to-day operations of the area directly, an interesting development here is The Club, which only 100 families can join, for a fee of around $85,000, once they reach the top of the waiting list.
Besides The Club, Windham has seen substantial improvements in recent years including a new beginners’ area around Whisper Run. My favourite run, also recently created, was Windfall – partly as it gives you an amazing view of the wealthy city bankers’ chalets as you ski down!
Sticking to my habit of recommending food at each area, here my favourite was the signature Windham Burger, but it was all good.
A final big plus point of Windham is that it’s only 60 miles from JFK. The best way to get there is the train from Penn Station via Amtrack to Hudson, 40 minutes from the resort. The scenic journey flies by and Hudson itself is a great town – full of character, very arty and with great restaurants.
I can’t wait to go back.
