One of the delights of ski resorts is that they come in all shapes and sizes. You have pretty, traditional Alpine villages that have been around for centuries and just happened to discover they had a good ski mountain next door when they became popular, and there are high-altitude, purpose-built ‘moon base’ resorts that are ghost towns outside the ski season. Some big cities have little ski areas you can access on the metro line, and you can even find ski hills in unlikely locations like Cyprus or in the Atlas mountains of Morocco. The list goes on…
The attractive lakeside town of Zell am See in Austria’s Salzburgerland falls somewhere between traditional village and city. Travelling there from the UK, you’re quickly reminded of all that’s good about a ski holiday to Austria even before you arrive – namely an efficient little airport at Salzburg followed by a short transfer on mostly main roads to the historic resort. It’s quick, easy and pleasant.
Zell am See does feel a little different to most Austrian ski destinations. Perhaps it’s because of its size or its water front location; it is not the normal mountain village made up of giant wooden chalets.
Credit – Nikolaus Faistauer
On the other hand, the mountains are still there, towering high above to altitudes capable of maintaining glacier skiing at neighbouring Kaprun (which has been included on a joint lift pass for nearly 50 years), so the comparatively low altitude of Zell am See doesn’t prevent guaranteed skiing throughout the season.
But even though it doesn’t meet the standard Austrian resort model, it’s still a very scenic spot, with the lake in front and the mountains behind. Another factor making Zell seem that bit different is the feeling of history that oozes from the medieval centre (now pedestrianised) and the culture of the place which stems from it.
Credit – Zell am See-Kaprun Tourismus Martin Steinthaler
The water sports, beach parties, classical concerts, festivals and theatre performances at the castle all combine to prove that Zell am See was around long before winter sports were thought of, and still has a life beyond them. It’s a great resort in which to just wander around the compact centre between eclectic little shops, stopping for a coffee in one of the many cafes or a drink in a bar every now and then.
The Mountain(s)
Zell am See’s 77km (48 miles) of trails are largely located on the Schmittenhöhe mountain directly behind the town. There are various access points to the area, but most people staying in central Zell will take the City Express gondola, the base of which is a few minutes’ walk above the town centre. Alternative access is via the neighbouring village of Schüttdorf or via a choice of two cable cars that leave from a base above Zell. All are linked by a ski bus, which is free to lift pass holders.
Credit – Zell am See-Kaprun Tourismus GmbH Dietmar Sochor
Beginners normally start up by the aforementioned Sonnenalm cable cars and will find the easier blue runs up on top of the mountain, with the option of taking the lift back down if the long run back is too daunting in the early days. Intermediates will enjoy Zell am See’s skiing the most with more than 50km (32 miles) of red and blue runs to whizz around on, including a wonderful 6.5km (4 mile) trail, the Schutt, descending the full 1200m back down to the resort and affording great views as you descend.
Advanced skiers have several long medium-steep blacks descending through the forest to enjoy, some usually mogulled, and Zell has a reputation for good off-piste powder when conditions are right.
Credit – Zell am See-Kaprun Tourismus GmbH Gletscherbahnen Kaprun AG
Zell am See’s sunny slopes do have good snow-making cover on nearly two-thirds of the piste, however most skiers will wish to visit Kaprun’s glacier skiing on the Kitzsteinhorn Glacier during their stay. This is accessed by a ski bus which runs every 20 minutes in high season, and once an hour during other periods. Journey time is around 30 minutes and the service is free to lift pass holders.
The Kitzsteinhorn is celebrating 50 years in operation this winter (and since becoming Austria’s first glacier ski destination) and will have an even better setup than before, thanks to new lifts improving access to the slopes. Two new modern lifts will allow skiers to enjoy a new 41km ‘Glacier Round Trip’ that will stretch from the 3029m-high peak to the Langwiedboden at an altitude of 1978m.
Freestylers will also enjoy the Kitzsteinhorn’s three snow parks, including Austria’s biggest super pipe, mogul slopes and five freeride ski trails that invite winter sports enthusiasts to freestyle to their heart’s content. The latest thrill is the Black Mamba, a 1,000m-long piste that covers 250m in altitude, has a maximum gradient of 63% and offers a true challenge for good skiers.
Credit – Gletscherbahnen Kaprun AG
The Rest
There are several dozen bars, pubs and discothèques in Zell am See meaning a lively night life is feasible for those who want it, with quiet, sophisticated night spots for those who don’t.
The Villa Crazy Daisy is normally one of the busiest spots in town, but there is so much more to do than just party in Zell – bowling, tobogganing, night skiing, cinema, swimming, skating and a host of other opportunities. Try to fit in a day trip, or even an afternoon in Salzburg if you can.
One other unusual aspect of Zell am See is that it has made it big with the Arabian market, particularly in summer, but there are also a few Eastern-themed Halal mini markets which are helpfully open when the Catholic-run establishments are not. There are restaurants and even bars where you can puff on a hookah pipe should you wish, or watch others doing the same – it’s very surreal in the snowy Alps but all the more fun for it, and it feels great to be at a ski resort that is such a cultural melting pot.
The final bit of good news regarding Zell am See and Kaprun is the value. Even when the euro was strong, prices here tended to be lower across the board for all aspects of your ski holiday cost, but with the pound strong this winter, the area feels ever more like a bargain.
Credit – Zell am See-Kaprun Tourismus Martin Steinthaler
Zell am See
Total Slopes : 138km
Total Lifts : 53
Mark Warner’s excellent new high-spec apartment complex, Lake Mountain Resort, is superbly located 2 minutes’ walk from the City Express gondola and a few steps from the resort centre too.
