“Don’t worry about frostbite …” my ski instructor Jan Philips tells my group standing under the thermometer, which is reading –32°C, “your skin goes a tad white, then scabs, but it won’t scar … do look out for your friends though.”
Prior to my visit to Mont Tremblant, Quebec, Canada, everybody to whom I had spoken had warned me to take every pair of thermals I own. But it’s not always perishingly cold, and I was expecting it, visiting in January – often the coldest month on both sides of the Atlantic.
But it’s not a day to be standing around. The pistes are virtually empty, and the snow hard-packed and in perfect condition. It may be bitter, but I’ve come all this way, so why waste valuable time?
Skiing in Canada varies dramatically coast-to-coast given the vastness of the country, and East Coast skiing is certainly a unique experience. Ski out of Quebec City in Le Massif Charlevoix and you’ll have a view over the St Lawrence River, yet head west to Montreal, and Tremblant is the largest settlement before the Arctic.
The views confirm this: from the north side of the mountain forests stretch as far as the eye can see, whilst the main south side offers a breathtaking vista of the frozen Lake Tremblant and distant wilderness.
Quebec is a fascinating place: bilingual and with major cultural influences from Europe and the States, it doesn’t really feel much like Canada at all.
Situated in the Northern region of the Laurentians, the weather in Tremblant fluctuates tremendously, and temperatures can plunge towards –30°C during the winter, whilst the mercury hits the high 20s to low 30s during the summer months.
Access to the resort’s 2.6km2 of skiing is easy, with a heated gondola whisking you straight from the village – usually just a short walk from your accommodation – to the top of the south side. From here it is possible to ski down to the north side pistes, or onto Versant Soleil – a third section of the ski hill (home to the casino and further lodging) – or to The Edge, which I’m told is the place to ski when the powder’s good.
The ski area is not huge, and rather surprisingly half the trails are classified black, although in reality most of those that are groomed could be considered red runs. Plenty is ideal family-friendly terrain. There are, however, a number of bump runs, with the bitter conditions ensuring a hard-packed (if not icy in places) base. For intermediates, the wide groomed trails make for excellent cruising ground, while beginners can practice within the safety of the nursery area, progressing to the easy green runs.
The resort is the soul survivor on Crystal Ski’s East Coast North America programme, and its most affordable transatlantic destination. “Tremblant is an entry-level North American resort,” Ian Davis the Product Director of TUI Ski told me. “It’s ideal for a keen, relatively experienced, skier looking to discover new resorts but also spend time in Montreal.”
Modelled in the style of a faux-Quebec-City – and purpose-built by Intrawest – the village contains vibrant colourful buildings and cobbled streets, and has been designed for maximum convenience.
If sliding downhill isn’t your thing, alternative winter activities include 80km of cross-country trails, which wind their way around the Tremblant National Park, ice skating on the lake or tubing, or plain old sledging for free. Snowshoeing through the forest is yet another alternative, and one of the best ways to spot deer and moose, the latter of which, outnumber the population of Quebec.
If tranquility and relaxation are more appealing, the nearby Scandinave Spa (where bombing is strictly prohibited, but heavy petting allowed) offers a chance to truly unwind in enforced silence. There are the traditional spa essentials to aid relaxation: saunas, stream rooms, and bubbling natural pools of warm spa water. And then there’s a freezing cold lake to plunge into. The process of alternating between hot and cold pools is a method of hydrotherapy and muscle relaxation – but also one that makes it incredibly difficult to keep the peace … so I recommend it last on the agenda – prepare to be thrown out.
Once ejected from the spa, and back in the resort, make sure to pay a visit to La Diable microbrewery, an après-ski hotspot serving six beers brewed on site. Food plays a big part in Canadian life, and much like all of Quebec there’s a huge variety of choice in the resort. There is something bizarrely humorous about sitting in Italian and French-Savioe restaurants approx. 6400km across the ocean, often paying less and enjoying better quality food than in the Alps. CoCo Pazzo is the best in town for an authentic Italian meal, but if you’re looking for raclette and fondue, La Savoie serves the traditional Alpine French cuisine.
So, if you’re looking for a little transatlantic jaunt this season, and fancy something new, Tremblant (and Montreal) are worthy contenders for your hit list.
