The smell hits me first—grilled meat wafting through crisp mountain air at Rifugio Scottoni. I’ve just carved down one of the most spectacular runs of my life, my legs burning, but that aroma promising a proper mountain feast makes me forget all about it. Twenty years of skiing the Dolomites have taught me something: This isn’t just another ski destination—it’s a place where memories are profoundly etched in the snow. The unique mountain culture adds a whole new dimension to the experience.
These aren’t just mountains – they’re a UNESCO Heritage Site, where dramatic limestone peaks create a landscape unlike anywhere else. With over 300 days of sunshine per year, the Dolomites offer a different kind of winter experience, one where long lunches on sunny terraces at rifugio’s (mountainside chalets) are as much a part of the experience as the skiing itself. At first sight, you’ll be inspired to explore every corner. And because it’s so vast, there is a likelihood you will only ski on the same run once!
From my base in Arabba—a village free from designer shops and focused purely on serious skiing—I have the perfect launchpad to explore the Sellaronda. This remarkable circular route winds around the Sella Massif, an imposing mountain group sentinel between valleys: Fassa, Livinallongo, Badia, and Gardena. On skis, start early – the best runs get skied out fast, but any intermediate skier with a few weeks’ experience can tackle the circuit confidently in half a day. Choose your direction wisely: the green route (counter-clockwise) serves the best photo opportunities in the morning light, while the orange route (clockwise) has charm for afternoon warriors.
But the Sellaronda is just your introduction. The more time you spend here, the more spectacular circuits you discover, each telling its story. Take the Grande Guerra Ski Tour, a powerful journey through terrain and time. Starting from Val Gardena, this route spans seven different ski areas across three Italian provinces, passing former World War I battlegrounds where soldiers once fought in these mountains. It’s a two-day adventure for most (though some tackle it in one ambitious day), mixing perfect turns with poignant history.
Then there’s the Super 8 Ski Tour, a figure-eight circuit that showcases the region’s most iconic peaks. Threading past Tofana, Pelmo, Civetta, Marmolada, Fanes, Averau, 5 Torri, and Conturines, it crosses three breathtaking mountain passes: Forcella Averau, Croda Negra, and Lagazuoi.
Then there’s the Hidden Valley—a run that feels like skiing through nature’s cathedral. From the top of the Lagazuoi rifugio, the highlight might be the Armentarola piste, winding beneath the ice wall along the enchanting Fanes highland. It’s not a frozen waterfall, but instead, water that is seeping through the rocks. The ice will have different shades of blue depending on the time of year you visit. Starting at 2,752 meters, there’s a solid 120-meter pitch before veering to the left. Suddenly, the run narrows and winds beneath towering walls, where every turn reveals another stunning vista. Like many routes here, it ends with that uniquely Dolomiti touch – a horse-drawn ski pull across a snowy meadow for 2.5 euros. If you want to do it again, you’ll have to take a 6-euro cab because no lifts take you back up.
From Arabba’s strategic position in the Livinallongo Valley, you have direct access to Marmolada, soaring to 3,343 meters, the undisputed Queen of the Dolomites. From the summit, endless snowpeaks unfurl in front of your eyes – These are just 5% of these snow-capped limestone giants. The high-altitude runs here are some of the region’s most challenging, demanding decent legs and skills. You can also download the lift if the effort is too much.
For those looking to take in mountain life, the hut-to-hut experience is absolutely a mind-blowing experience. Instead of returning to the valley each night, you ski from one rifugio to the next, each with its character and cuisine. Wake up to alpenglow painting the peaks, ski all day through ever-changing terrain, then arrive at your next mountain refuge where generations of the same family might have been welcoming skiers for decades. Enjoy a grappa. You’ll most likely find yourself with traditional Ladin meals that you won’t find anywhere! The experience goes beyond your bedroom – it’s a chance to connect with the people, their culture and their mountain history.
Following the rhythm of the valleys, I eventually found my sweet spot in Pozza di Fassa, where authentic community life pulses through every street. From here, the lifts and pistes of Val di Fassa spread out before you—Canazei and Alba beckon, each with its character, all connected to the great circuit of the Sellaronda.
Planning Your Dolomites Adventure
The numbers are impressive—between 550 and 650 kilometres of runs across multiple valleys, all accessible with one Dolomiti Superski pass. Choose your base wisely: Arabba for severe skiers and Marmolada access, Val Gardena for perfect Sellaronda positioning, Val Badia for its gourmet skiing mix, or Pozza di Fassa for authentic mountain atmosphere.
Book rifugios early, especially for hut-to-hut adventures – these aren’t just mountain huts but institutions.
Time your visit for January’s reliable snow and smaller crowds or March’s warmer temperatures and legendary sunny days. Venice, Innsbruck, and Verona airports all serve the region well with a direct service from London to Bolzano with SkyAlps too.
Just save room in your luggage for some local speck and aged cheese. Because once you’ve tasted the real thing up here, the supermarket version back home just won’t cut it anymore. And isn’t that the point of travel? To find places that change your standards forever?
The Dolomites have a way of doing that – not just with skiing, but with everything. Don’t blame me when planning your return trip before you’ve finished your first bombardino.
All images credit Frederick Wallace
